| 4WD MODS
HOW TO FIT A SNORKEL
If you're comfortable hacking into a perfectly good mudguard, go for it!
We've fitted a snorkel before, so we didn't find the job too daunting this time. The recent job involved picking up a snorkel from an Opposite Lock store and attaching it to our Project 75 Series ute.
We know that the 75 Series comes with a standard snorkel, but ours was showing its age and had developed a crack near the top mounting.
Another factor was the somewhat restrictive design of the standard snorkel, which is narrow in section and has a relatively small hole into the air cleaner. The entry is also restricted by a diffuser plate inside the air cleaner housing.
Safari's design employs a larger volume snorkel pipe and larger air cleaner entry nozzle. The diffuser plate is drilled out and discarded during fitment.
In conjunction with a scoop cap the freerer-flowing snorkel is claimed to improve performance, by reducing engine pumping losses. Our forthcoming long bush trip (July 2014) will give us a good opportunity to check out these claims.
The snorkel kit for the 75 Series was boxed and came with cardboard templates for cutting and drilling, plus all necessary fasteners and fittings.
A comprehensive instruction booklet, with accurate pictures, made progress logical and simple.
Step one involved removing the existing factory snorkel and the air cleaner.
To allow access to the inner mudguard it was also necessary to remove the fuel filter and pre-filter housings and brackets.
The standard snorkel had two attachment studs that mounted to a spot-welded plate, so I drilled out the spot welds and removed the studs.
With the mudguard now naked I taped the drilling and cutting template in place and marked the necessary mods. A step drill made short work of the attachment holes and a hand saw enlarged the standard air cleaner entry aperture.
The replacement snorkel had a different top attachment bracket, so I drilled the A-pillar to accept it and fitted the supplied nylon hole plugs.
Five studs were supplied to fasten the snorkel to the mudguard, so in went four of them, with Loctite for good measure, and Nyloc securing nuts did the rest. The fiftth stud and nut went in last.
I tightened up the top bracket and the snorkel attachment part of the job was finished.
Then it was time to modify the air cleaner can, by drilling out the spot welds that held the snout and the diffuser in place and using a template to mark a larger air entry hole and 12 rivet positions. A nibbler made light work of the hole enlarging job.
I fitted the replacement rubber snout through the enlarged hole and fixed it in place with some silicone sealer, before rivetting the stainless backing plate in place, with supplied rivets.
Then it was time to slot the air cleaner back in the engine bay, slipping the new rubber snout over the snorkel air pipe and securing it with a supplied hose clamp.
Back went the fuel filters and the final job was to put the air scoop on top of the snorkel.
The instruction sheet reckoned the whole process was a three-hour task, but it took me five. I think I could do it again in about four. Two people could share the job, with one fitting the snorkel to the vehicle body and one modifying the air cleaner, to bring the time back to around two hours.
I was impressed with the quality of the Safari kit that needed no additional fasteners and with the way the parts fitted. The instruction booklet was spot-on.
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